Phoenix
Owners renovators
Currently in Florida
and sailors of the Phoenix
for a few weeks
We sold our previous boat Whydah- The Handy little Schooner -to a German sailing association: while waiting for completion we scanned the internet for another sailboat. We visited Holland which resulted in us placing a bid for a sad looking Wauquiez 38 with a lift keel. When the engine was started, a Perkins 4-108, on tickover the low oil pressure light stayed on indicating a wholly worn engine which would require replacement. The broker, an arrogant Dutchman, would have none of it so we left it where we found it. A similar situation developed in Dartmouth with a Rival 38 that required the teak deck to be removed - an estimated 3000 stainless screws puncturing the top laminate of a balsa cored deck. The bottom line is that you can't buy these 30 to 40 yr old boats cheap enough when considering the costings.
By removing the existing bench seat which was far to low for forward vision and cutting out the rear valance we opened up the rear of the cockpit. By fitting a 75mm high grating we have also further improved forward vision and easier access to the rear deck
steering box whitlock
Steering pedestal & gearbox stripped, re-shimmed
Secondary shaft & sprocket for old autopilot removed, blanking piece fitted & whole unit re-assembled.
New radius arm in LM6, 1” longer than original, s/s actuating rod fitted, making steering 2 turns lock to lock.
Old angle iron rudder stop frame removed – improves rudder angle for close quarters steering. Steering now uses correct rudder stops in gearbox itself, improvement of 5 deg on original design, making it easier to manage in marinas.
Rudder stuffing gland repacked and fitted with new bolts.
new batteries and box
Batteries
3 no. 100 ampere batteries installed into a newly constructed box of plywood with epoxy coating 2020 in chart table area.
Shore power battery charger fitted
KISS wind generator overhauled, now working to specification
new frigoboat keel cooler
Refrigeration - Changed to Penguin Frigoboat keel cooler to maximise efficiency
Keel cooler (left of 3) installed. We found the old air cooled refrigeration system to be inadequate in tropical heat.
CHART TABLE REPLACEMENT & PILOT BERTH
Chart table reduced in size & refitted with VHF & new ICOM718 ham radio, smart Tuner (in lazarette at base of aerial)
Computer, monitor, GPS installed with world wide electronic navigation charts, navtex & weatherfax. New inverter fitted
Instruments - New through hull paddle wheel log. New windhawk.
New tricolour, anchor light & strobe.
Quarter berth installed in place of inaccessible cupboards so navigator has a convenient place to rest.
NEW SALOON FINISH & UPHOLSTERY
Lighting - All interior lights converted to LED
75% Internal wiring reworked & replaced as necessary. Control ammeters installed on switch panel
All teak bulkheads originally stained mahogany and varnished which gave a dark interior unsuited to modern living. We sanded back & repainted in off white gloss to allow maximum light reflection from hatches and windows. Old upholstery (dark grey) removed and replaced with red waterproof fabric & black buttons
WATERLINE dropped 4 INCHES. HULL REPAINTED 2019.
We removed a lot of unwanted heavy items which changed the waterline considerably.
Sanded off stained old Awlgrip and repainted with Rustoleum black topside paint using a high density roller.
Applied water based Petits self leeching red antifouling which has proved successful to date.
BUKH ENGINE DV36
Engine - hauled to above sole level, cleaned, repainted with primer & topcoat
New Lewmar controls fitted. Engine control cables checked, gearbox cable replaced. New clutch element fitted May 2017
Heat exchanger overhauled and new barrel nipple fitted
Engine air intake routed to top of gearbox to reduce induction noise in cabin
Noise insulation fitted on sole boards and surrounding hatches.
reworked exhaust
The exhaust issued into a Vetus waterlock which sat on top of gearbox. As can be seen in the picture, this now runs forward and issues into the same Vetus waterlock in the next bilge bay forward. It has two modern 70amp alternators, one to starter battery and one to domestic batteries.
Whilst under the sole engines add to the ballasting, they can be a pain to work on.
Changing the injection pump
BUKH DV 36 - Changing the injection pump
Although the old pump looks worn, it started the engine instantly and ran cleanly. Unfortunately it developed a diesel leak. We bought a new pump on Ebay for $750, a providential purchase.
The main issue here is timing. This method does not require a dial test indicator and a piece of gauging bar supplied by Bukh.
Start by removing the high pressure lines and the feed and bleed pipes. If you still have the hand start turret in place, remove it: split the chain and hang it on two bits of cord.
This will allow you to see the rear of the timing gear on refitment.
Remove the fuel lift pump, then remove the rear cover (2 small bolts). Be careful to catch the cam follower that drives the pump, otherwise it will slip into the engine.
Slacken back the pump itself (2 nuts on engine studs), go to the rear and mark the engaged teeth. (I used white nail varnish). Loosen the main nut (19mm) a couple of turns. Strike the end of the nut with a dolly and a hammer: the pump shaft taper and gearwheel should come apart easily, ours did after 40 years.
You can now remove the pump by pulling it out of the engine casting. Temporarily refit the gear to the pump shaft and measure the depth from the gear facing to the shaft. This is a check that will ensure the gear is fully home when fitted on the new pump.
Take note of where the shaft and Woodruff key are aligned – this is important.
Fit the new pump with a new O ring, go to the rear of the engine and using the main nut, turn the keyway so that the alignment is the same as the old pump when you removed it. The relationship between the engaged teeth and the keyway is the important aspect of the timing. A point to note – the pump shaft likes to stay in certain places. The pump will not stay where you want it to. Mark the back of the pump gear so that you can see where the keyway is at the rear. Engage the correct teeth, keeping the gear lose from the shaft. You can now rotate the engine – I always use a large screwdriver on the outer ring gear – looking to the rear of the gearwheel through the chain turret hole you can rotate the engine until the gear keyway aligns with the pump Woodruff key. Tighten up the gear with the centre nut making certain that the gear is fully home. Before fitting the nut, measure the depth of the pump shaft in the gear hole and ensure it is fully home.
Refit the rear cover and lift pump, bleed and try to start the engine. If it doesn't start immediately, the pump is one whole revolution out and you will have to repeat the process with the gear wheel after you have rotated it by one revolution. I know this latter part may be tedious but it allows you to change the pump without the usual timing bother on the flywheel and finding out where the piston is in the pump for which you will need a DTI and short length of steel provided by Bukh.